Liuli

Liuli is a small town in southwestern Tanzania with a population of around 3,000. It is situated directly on the shores of Lake Nyasa (also known as Lake Malawi) and is surrounded by the Livingstone Mountains. Approximately 1,200 kilometers by road from the nearest international airport in Dar es Salaam, Liuli can be reached in as little as two to three days.

Journey

An asphalt road connects Dar es Salaam to Songea, which is about 900 kilometers away. Since the completion of the southbound coastal road in 2019, travelers can now reach Songea via Lindi in southeastern Tanzania. Alternatively, the older, fully paved route through Iringa offers a more scenic and varied journey. Several long-distance buses depart Dar es Salaam early each morning, arriving in Songea late in the evening or at night. From Songea to Liuli, the 165-kilometer road leading to Lake Nyasa has been fully asphalted since 2020. The final 40 kilometers from Mbamba Bay to Liuli remain a gravel road along the lake. There are one or two buses daily that run between Mbinga and Songea, passing through Mbamba Bay.

Infrastructure

Liuli itself lacks major infrastructure. The nearest petrol station is located in Mbamba Bay, about 40 kilometers away, though there's no guarantee of a consistent supply of diesel or petrol. The local hospital, which has nearly 100 beds, is the largest employer in the area. In addition to a few small shops and kiosks for daily necessities, there is a tailor, several small businesses, food stalls, pubs, and basic accommodations. The town also features a small market and a sports field. Directly across from the hospital is the church, which serves as the Sunday gathering place for residents of Liuli and the surrounding villages.

Economic Situation

Most residents of the Liuli region rely on produce from their own small farms, typically located behind their homes. Cassava (also known as manioc), a root vegetable, is the main staple crop. Without access to agricultural machinery, these small fields are cultivated by hand. Another segment of the population sustains themselves through fishing on Lake Malawi, which ensures a good supply of food and contributes to the drinking water supply. However, fishermen's earnings are highly dependent on the weather; heavy rains or storms can make the lake impassable, temporarily halting the fish supply. Additionally, many families keep chickens and goats to supplement their food sources.

While daily life in Liuli may appear idyllic at first glance, poverty and numerous challenges are prevalent. Most residents live on an average of about 1 to 1.50 euros a day, which the World Bank classifies as extreme poverty. Only a few people live in single-story brick houses; the majority reside in mud houses produced by a small local brickwork. Multiple generations often share limited living spaces, with each contributing to daily upkeep and survival within their means. There is no pension system in place. Although primary education is officially compulsory and free,
some children are unable to attend school because their families must prioritize securing basic necessities at home.

History

From the Colonial Era to Independence
The area now known as Tanzania was part of the German colony of German East Africa from 1885 to 1918. German colonists advanced inland from the east coast and established the town of Sphinx Harbour—today’s Liuli—on Lake Nyasa around 1890, named after a rock formation that resembled a sphinx.

In 1893, the German colonial forces stationed a police and customs ship, the Hermann von Wissmann, on Lake Nyasa. Initially used to monitor and combat the slave trade, the ship also served as a transport vessel to other ports along the lake. At the outbreak of World War I in August 1914, British troops captured the ship’s captain and engineer, only then informing the German crew of the war's commencement.

After World War I, Liuli came under British administrative control. In 1962, the mainland region that is now Tanzania, along with Zanzibar, gained independence as the Republic of Tanganyika. Just two years later, on April 26, 1964, Tanganyika united with the island state of Zanzibar to form the "United Republic of Tanzania."

More Recent Developments
Until the early 2000s, reaching Liuli required navigating very challenging paths. The gravel road along Mbamba Bay did not exist, forcing off-road vehicles to traverse dense vegetation, precarious bridges, or riverbeds to access Liuli, primarily to ensure the supply of materials to the hospital. Until around 2005, there was no mobile phone network, so telephone calls had to be made through operators at the post office. Patients typically reached the hospital either on foot or by using dugout canoes along the lakeshore. Electricity was unavailable until the hospital installed its first solar system at the end of the 1990s.

Since the mid-2000s, mobile phone providers have expanded their coverage aggressively, and even in the most remote regions like Liuli, cell towers have been rapidly erected. The road along the lake is now more or less maintained, eliminating the need for transportation by dugout canoe. Many people in the region share mopeds or offer transportation services using them. It is only a matter of time before the road along Lake Nyasa is fully paved.